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When your groups start opening up and patches keep coming out blue, that copper buildup is usually the culprit. Barnes CR-10 is the fix a lot of folks reach for when milder solvents just aren't cutting it. This ammonia-based formula goes after the toughest copper, brass, and lead deposits jacketed bullets leave behind, and it dissolves the corrosive carbon and powder crud that cakes up in the throat after a long day at the range. It's non-corrosive to your barrel steel, so it does the dirty work without eating up the metal you're trying to protect.
This stuff is no-nonsense. The ammonia reacts with copper fouling and turns your patches blue, which is how you know it's working. That aggressive action is exactly why serious rifle owners keep a bottle on the bench, especially anyone running high-velocity cartridges that foul fast and heat up the throat. Clean rifling means better accuracy and a barrel that lasts longer, plain and simple.
A little technique goes a long way here. Soak a tight-fitting patch and run it through the bore to knock down the powder fouling first, then work a solvent-soaked brush back and forth ten to twenty passes. Nylon or bronze both work, though a lot of guys prefer nylon with CR-10. Angle the muzzle down and use a bore guide so nothing drips back into the action. Don't let it sit in the bore longer than about fifteen minutes, follow up with a dry patch, then wipe the bore with a non-chlorinated brake cleaner patch and finish with a light coat of oil for storage.
The 8 oz bottle is the size to grab if you shoot regularly or clean more than one gun. It's petroleum-free, made in the USA, and a little goes a long way. Keep it ventilated, wear gloves, and it'll earn a permanent spot in your cleaning kit.
Barnes recommends not leaving CR-10 in the bore for more than fifteen minutes at a time. Because it's ammonia-based, letting it sit too long can lead to rust on bare steel. Run soaked patches, let it work for a few minutes, then wipe it out and repeat as needed.
A nylon brush is the safer bet with a strong copper solvent like CR-10. Bronze and brass brushes contain copper themselves, which can react with the ammonia and give you false blue readings on your patches. If you want maximum scrubbing on heavy fouling, some folks still use bronze, just know it can make it harder to tell when the barrel is truly clean.
Once your patches come out clean, run a dry patch through to remove most of the solvent, then follow up with a non-chlorinated brake cleaner patch to pull out any leftover CR-10. Finish by wiping the bore with a light coat of gun oil before storage. This keeps the freshly cleaned steel protected from moisture.
Yes, CR-10 is non-corrosive to barrel steel and won't harm your rifling when used as directed. Just keep it off wood stocks and finishes, and note that it can discolor electroless nickel plated parts. Wipe up any spills right away and you'll be fine.
| UPC | 716876008100 |
|---|---|
| Manufacturer | |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 30755 |
| Product Type | Bore Cleaner |
| Quantity | 1 |
| Shipping Weight | 0.62 |
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