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The 10mm Auto headspaces on the case mouth, which means roll crimping is off the table and a taper crimp is the way to go. This Redding die (part number 85520) is purpose-built for exactly that job. It gently squeezes the case mouth back down after you've removed the flare, holding the bullet in place and leaving a straight wall that chambers cleanly. Redding machines these from high grade steel to tight tolerances, so you get the same crimp on round number one and round number one thousand.
Plenty of die sets let you seat and crimp in one pass, and that works fine for a lot of folks. But running a separate taper crimp step is a favorite trick among serious 10mm handloaders for good reason. When you seat and crimp at the same time, the crimp can engage while the bullet is still moving down, which can shave or distort soft lead, plated, and coated bullets. Breaking it into two operations lets you seat with little or no crimp first, then dial in the crimp on its own. The payoff is more consistent overall length and less bullet damage, which is a big deal when you're pushing the kind of pressures 10mm is known for.
Setup is where this die really shines. Most reloaders sneak up on the crimp using dummy rounds, checking case-mouth diameter with calipers and making sure loaded rounds drop in and out of their chamber or case gauge. A common target for 10mm with .400 bullets lands right around .421 to .422 at the mouth, just enough to erase the flare and secure the bullet against setback. The nice thing about a taper crimp is that it's set for the barrel, not the bullet, so once you've got it where you want it you shouldn't need to touch it again unless you're accounting for normal die wear down the road.
If you reload 10mm for a Glock, a 1911, a revolver, or anything in between, this is the kind of simple, well-made tool that quietly makes your ammo more reliable. Thread it into any standard 7/8-14 press station and you're set.
The 10mm Auto headspaces on the case mouth, so a roll crimp would roll the mouth over and mess up how the round seats in the chamber. A taper crimp simply squeezes the mouth back down after flaring, leaving a straight case wall that chambers correctly. That's exactly what this Redding die is designed to do.
You don't strictly need one, since many seating dies can apply a light crimp in the same step. That said, a separate crimp die lets you seat and crimp in two operations, which gives you more consistent overall length and reduces the risk of shaving or distorting soft, plated, or coated bullets. A lot of dedicated 10mm reloaders prefer running it this way.
Yes, it uses the standard 7/8-14 thread, so it threads into any common single-stage or progressive press station. Just back out your seating die crimp first if you're splitting seating and crimping into separate steps.
The goal is to remove the case-mouth flare and secure the bullet, not to squeeze it hard. With .400 bullets, many handloaders aim for roughly .421 to .422 at the case mouth and verify by dropping loaded rounds into their chamber or case gauge. Once it's set correctly it generally stays put, since the crimp is tied to the barrel rather than the bullet you're loading.
| UPC | 611760855207 |
|---|---|
| Manufacturer | |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 85520 |
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